The sweet ingredient at the center of a debate
In Mexico City’s markets, acitrón remains present despite its ban since the early 2000s. This crystallized candy comes from the biznaga cactus, a slow-growing species now considered endangered due to overharvesting.
Many describe its chewy texture and roasted-like flavor as unlike any other traditional sweet. For Mexican families, acitrón has a strong cultural significance, especially in dishes like chiles en nogada, a national symbol enjoyed during Independence Day celebrations.
Environmental risks and conservation efforts
Experts in botany warn that more than 150 species of biznaga exist in Mexico, but many are at risk of extinction. These cacti grow just millimeters per year, making cultivation challenging and unprofitable. As a result, harvesting continues to rely on wild populations, pushing them further toward decline.
At the Botanical Garden of the National Autonomous University of Mexico, researchers highlight the difference between the biznaga and other cacti such as the nopal. While the nopal can regenerate after parts are cut, the biznaga does not, making it highly vulnerable to exploitation.
Tradition and adaptation in Mexican cuisine
Some chefs have turned to substitutes like candied chilacayote, arguing that the taste of traditional dishes remains intact. Blind taste tests even suggest that many diners cannot distinguish the difference. Still, for families who associate acitrón with inherited recipes, its absence feels like a break from tradition.
The ongoing debate reflects a broader challenge: how to protect endangered species while maintaining cultural heritage. The future of acitrón will depend on whether society prioritizes culinary nostalgia or ecological preservation.
